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Beet-Soaked Deviled Eggs
These
deviled eggs are a showstopper. Colored pink by the leftover brine of
pickled roasted beets, they're filled with fluffy egg yolks mashed
smooth with
a little bit of quality canned albacore tuna. You could incorporate all
sorts of smoked or preserved fish here—smoked tuna, salt cod, smoked
salmon—but you'll notice I only make a minor addition so the briny fish
flavor is intact, yet subtle. I also want to taste the beautiful flavor
of sulfurous,
creamy egg yolks. Your choice of garnish could likewise be diverse. One
of my
favorites is smoked paprika.
Makes 24
12 large eggs
Brine from a 15-ounce can of pickled roasted beets
¾ cup + 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon canned or smoked tuna
3 teaspoons Dijon mustard
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika, plus more for garnish
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt + more for boiling water
Fill a medium saucepan with water and set it to boil on high heat. Add a few
good pinches of salt. Maintaining a boil, and with a wide spoon, very gently
lower the eggs into the pot. Set your timer for exactly 13 minutes and allow to
cook at a rolling boil. Meanwhile, prepare a medium bowl with ice water.
Once the timer has buzzed, drain the eggs and lower them into the bowl of ice
water to shock. Leave them to sit in the ice water until cold, about 7 minutes
or so. To peel eggs, tap the flatter end first, finding the air bubble, then
continue to peel under a thin stream of running cold water. You can do this
without the running water, but it simultaneously quickens and cleans the process.
Add the strained pickled beet juice to a wide bowl. Submerge the whole peeled
eggs and allow them to rest for about 1 to 2 hours, depending on the depth of
color you prefer. One hour will brightly color the outside edges, leaving the
inner bright white. Two hours will deeply color the white throughout. Make sure
to gently move the soaking eggs around a bit in the brine to avoid white spots
from eggs touching one another.
Once the eggs are dyed, add the
mayo and tuna to a medium bowl. Mash with a fork
until the tuna is fully incorporated and broken down to a smooth paste.
Scoop the yolks from the pink
whites and add these too, along with the mustard, smoked paprika,
vinegar, and
salt. Again, mash with your fork until soft and smooth. If your mixture
is not smooth enough, push through a fine mesh strainer. Season to
taste
with more salt and smoked paprika.
Spoon or pipe the creamy yolk mixture into each egg half and garnish with more
smoked paprika.
Grilled Green Beans
Green beans often appear in a
variety of delicious preparations throughout the
year: creamy green bean casserole; steamed with toasted almonds;
roasted with
bacon and onion, or tossed in basil pesto pasta. But during the late
summer
harvest when entangled, bright green piles of skinny, pole beans are
presented,
and their seasonal beauty begs for a new twist on our old, go-to
recipes. I've
found a crave-worthy solution in grilled green beans. The simple act of
grilling can transform a green bean into something wonderfully new. Be
warned;
it takes a bit of patience. The beans must collapse and develop a dark
char,
but I guarantee they will turn your dinner guests into green bean
fiends. I’m confident these beans will disappear quickly from the
platter alone, but they
are also delicious with a dipping sauce. Try blending mayonnaise with a
couple
of anchovy fillets and mustard, garlic, capers, and olive oil to taste.
Serves 4 to 6
1 pound fresh green beans, ends snapped
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon chili powder
¼ teaspoon fennel pollen
Toss all ingredients together in a large bowl. Marinate for at least one hour in
the refrigerator.
Heat the grill or grill pan to medium-high. Add a single layer of green beans
across grate. Turn beans occasionally, charring on all sides. Cook until green
beans have dark grill marks and start to collapse. Serve immediately.
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Buttermilk Fried Quail
I consider fried chicken
quintessential summer food. I’d even risk burning the roof of my mouth
for that piping hot first bite. The
crispy crust and dark meat are irresistible. So, what if we could
exaggerate
that part of the experience? I’ll let you in on a little secret: we
can! And quail is the answer. An entirely
dark meat bird, quail’s small size increases the surface area of the
crunch and its quick fry time
means little risk of meat drying out while it cooks through. Why mess
with a
classic? For a new classic, of course.
Serves 2 to 4
Wet brine:
4 semi-boneless whole quail
1½ cups buttermilk
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
Dry Coating:
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
¼ teaspoon cayenne
16 tablespoons shortening
kosher salt
Pat quail dry and place in a large bowl or zip-top plastic bag with buttermilk,
salt, pepper, and paprika. Turn gently to coat quail and arrange so quail is
submerged in mixture. If mixed in a bowl, cover and refrigerate for at least
four hours or overnight.
Mix dry ingredients together and place in a paper bag or shallow bowl. Remove
one quail at a time from the refrigerator; shake off excess buttermilk and
place the quail in paper bag with flour. Shake to coat and then place each
quail on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Let sit for 30 minutes at room
temperature, uncovered.
Heat shortening in a large cast iron skillet or heavy bottomed saucepan.
Shortening should be very hot and flour should sizzle when added to pan.
Carefully lower quail into melted shortening (now oil); cook about 3 minutes on
each side or until golden brown. Remove quail and drain on a wire rack over a
paper towel–lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with kosher salt while still warm. Serve with
sweet pickles, if desired.
Lemony Dill Potato Salad
Most every American grew up eating
potato salad, regardless of geography. And in
most cases, there was little deviation from the standard: egg and
mayonnaise-laden boiled potatoes with sweet pickle, celery, parsley,
and
oftentimes bacon. It’s a solid classic. But this version is decidedly
different, possibly
blasphemous, and totally delicious. This is a potato salad I admire for
its
sheer simplicity. I like a dressing that is just creamy enough to
coat—never gloppy. The potatoes, which are the focal point, aren’t
overwhelmed, but instead lightened and brightened by the soured cream,
fresh
lemon juice, and zest. The dill adds a perfect earthy counter balance.
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Serves 4
1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
¼ cup grated raw onion
1 teaspoon fresh dill
kosher salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Place potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with 1 inch of water. Bring to a
simmer and cook to fork-tender; drain and briefly run under cold water to cool.
Drain and cut into bite size pieces.
Combine remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Gently fold in chopped potatoes.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and chill. Remove
from refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.
Bourbon Bananas with Ice Cream and Smoked Sea Salt
Created in 1951 at Brennan's
Restaurant in New Orleans, Bananas Foster was
developed by Chef Paul Blange for Richard Foster, a frequent customer
and
member of the New Orleans Crime Commission. Often a tableside
performance with
flaming alcohol, this showy dessert quickly became a favorite in
steakhouses
across the country. The days of flambéed desserts for the sake of
showbiz (think Cherries Jubilee, Crepes Suzette,
Bombe Alaska) may have passed, but our penchant for tender bananas
bathed in
warm caramelized sugar and served over rich ice cream has not. A plain
banana
split simply pales in comparison. Now, more than sixty years after the
dessert’s origin, I've updated it with an alternative alcohol and
skipped the fiery
spectacle, but the one ingredient that reinvents this classic is smoked
salt.
The traditional flavors remain, but the new smokey nuances play off the
nutty
sugar and hints of vanilla in oaky bourbon. And with the subtle crunch
of flaky sea salt, this divine end to a meal is a recipe worth
revisiting.
Serves 2
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons brown sugar
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
2 bananas, sliced into quarters lengthwise
2 tablespoons bourbon
2 scoops vanilla ice cream
smoked sea salt
Heat butter in a nonstick skillet
over medium-high heat. Add brown sugar and
vanilla and whisk to dissolve. Cook 2 to 3 minutes or until just
bubbling. Add
bananas and gently turn to coat, cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes.
Add bourbon and cook,
simmering for another 2 minutes, until syrup thickens and bananas are
warmed through. Serve immediately with vanilla ice cream and a
sprinkle of smoked sea salt.
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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2013
Simple Dishes Made Special
Written and Photographed by Brenda Crow
The more I cook, the more I conclude that
simplicity really is a gorgeous understatement on the plate. I’m hardly a
cook who seeks out fifteen-minute dinners, eats replacement meals, or
thrives on the easy-as-pie approach. When it comes down to it, I love
cooking,
so spending less time in the kitchen is not often the goal. But even
though I
look for the adventurous, I often find that for many foods, simpler is
better.
When you have that right ingredient, whether it’s a perfectly ripe
peach or a vivid, smoky paprika, it doesn’t pay to overcomplicate in the
kitchen. These lovely foods are fully capable of
speaking for themselves. In some cases, ordinary ingredients have the
power to
transform even the simplest dishes. This collection of recipes is based
on that
premise. You’ll find well-worn recipes here that look (and taste!) ever
so different just by
the addition or substitution of something special. The next time you
consider a
dish that’s in your permanent rotation, think about how you could
change just one element
and transform it into something new.
As featured in
Home By Design
Information deemed reliable but not guaranteed.
All measurements are approximate.
Copyright 2013 Network Communications Inc.
All rights reserved.
All rights reserved.

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